The capital of Tajikstan is nestled in the snowcapped Pamir Mountains and has a population of 600 000. It wasn’t always the premier city in the country: Until 1926 Dushanbe was a tiny village whose main importance was a market held every Monday (the city’s name means Monday in Tajik). Then the railroad came to town and transformed the sleepy hamlet into a major transportation hub.

The soviet building boom left its scars on the city. Nonetheless its tree-lined streets and avenues and stalinst government buildings are not without a certain charm.
The biggest attraction in town is the Barakat covered market where colorful Tajik goods are sold. Other sites include the motley Tajikistan Unified Museum (stuffed animals and ex-Soviet memorabilia) the Ethnographic Museum (traditional handicrafts) the Rokhat teahouse and Aini Square and Memorial Complex (named after the father of Tajik literature).

After you’ve exhausted the possibilities in town take a day trip to Gissar Fortress 18 mi/30 km away. The stronghold built in the 18th century and abandoned after 1920 was once the residence of the Turko-Mongric rulers. Other excursions can be made to Adzhina-Tepe (an ancient Buddhist monastery) and to the Varzob Gorge the site of a health resort and thermal springs (it will appeal to those who feel that hot radon steam is therapeutic). The Ramit Nature Reserve lies not far off.